Twins

John and Victoria arrive at Rivahaven Yacht Club two days after we return from our 120 day expedition. They visited here in June at the start of their four month odyssey to the North East, Newfoundland, PEI and Quebec so we have both been on the road and have lots of stories and advice to swop! Bonus.... they brought Oakley the magnificent traveling tabby cat and Victoria's twin sister Jackie!

Finally home!

Completing the last 2,300 mile haul from Sedona to Virginia in 5 days got us home to the Chesapeake Bay after 120 beautiful days on the road, moving north to Canada mid summer and dropping down south to Arizona as temperatures dropped - mobility in the 60 to 70 degree isotherm! Camped out over 40 days inside some amazing National Parks including Crater Lake, Banff and Jasper, Northern Cascades, Yellowstone, Tetons, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon, and State Parks in Oregon, Washington, Utah and Arizona. Visited fellow Airstreamers, cousins in Montana, family in Utah, wedding celebrations in the San Juan islands, and enjoyed meeting new friends along the way! Checked out wildlife along the way - elk, moose, grizzly and black bears (hiked with bear spray!), bison, wolves, mountain goats, long horn sheep, prong horned antelope, coyotes and eagles. Total journey of 10,700 miles and 30 campsites managed within our budget. Now for a month of truck and camper repairs, modifications and improvements before the next expedition plan that goes south to Florida and north to Alaska!

Clinton Presidential Library

Checking out Bill Clinton's saxophone collection at the Presidential Library in Little Rock Arkansas. Although they spent three times more money on building the Clinton Library over the Reagan library they certainly did not get anywhere near the same level of engagement, stimulation and interest as the outstanding Library in Simi Valley. The highlight was lunch in "42" restaurant which featured some of Bill's favorites at a very reasonable price! I had a fat laden and delicious smoked brisket with melted cheese sandwich and deluxe fries! Quadruple bypass I hope to avoid on his diet!

Red Rocks State Park

Pay the $7 per person entry fee and enjoy this quiet hiking park! Watch the video for a thorough introduction to the area.
We chose to link four trails which took us above the park for great vistas of the surrounding rock formations then down to the Apache Fire House. Having read about its history and construction, we were VERY disappointed that it had been closed for repairs for years! No information on that! The final trail section took us along the creek. A good morning hike!

Sinagua Indian Petroglyth Calendar

What an amazing understated and hidden gem the V-Bar-V ranch petroglyph site is! You can stand just a few feet from over a thousand petroglyphs and benefit from an expert volunteer park ranger who will entertain, interpret and educate you beyond belief. It was astounding to discover the native Indians had nailed the calendar functionality of the petroglyths on the rock face.  The carved symbols aligned with the sun shadow created by prominent pointer rocks lodged in a crevasse so that at certain times of the year the Sinagua Indians could keep track significant agricultural, social and astrological events - see first photo. It was a ten minute walk through the fields and trees to the site with a little shade on the way but the petroglyph site was well shaded and very rough terrain around the rocks – no State money has been spent on improving this site! Jeff the volunteer on the day we visited was exceptionally knowledgeable and obviously has a personal passion in this site – his wife was the receptionist at the ranger office as you came into the V-Bar-V site. This is a must not miss site but its only open 4 days a week. Our Golden Age National Parks senior pass provided free access.

Verde Canyon non-express

Well "express" it is not! I'm sure most of these historic railway operations must be limited to 20 mph or else they would derail! Condition of the ancient rolling stock and especially track conditions would make higher speeds dangerous. However it's more about the journey and no one needs to speed along the beautiful Sycamore and Verde valley but simply enjoy the red rock canyons and mountains, the Verde river, trestle bridges, tunnel, leafy canyons and the Coconino National Forest. We traveled first class and had an exclusive adjoining open viewing car we could move between the two easily.  Opened in 1912 to serve copper mines we traveled a round trip of 20 miles of the 38 mile track boarding at Clarkdale to turn around at Perkinsville which is really nowhere in particular except scenes from How the West Was Won were filmed here! I was expecting a ghost town but I was disappointed there really was nothing to see! The narrator and waitresses described the main scenery enroute and generated a lot of spirit and were very much into promoting alcoholic drinks and I suppose that was the antidote for a four hour slow rail journey up the canyon to nowhere! I really prefer live steam locomotives but sice this railroad was 5 miles from our camp we decided to enjoy the ride!

Arizona sunsets

Most evenings when we get back to camp early enough we fire up the grill and we serve cocktails and relax enjoying sunsets that started around 6 pm first of October and have gradually moved to 5:30 pm as we move into fall. As darkness falls the stars in the night sky become highly visible, then we light a huge camp fire! Dinner might be ready soon!

Mariposa dining Sedona

Well there are dining experiences then there is the Mariposa Sedona dining experience!  High winds tore at us as we crossed the parking lot at Mariposa but once inside it was calm and yet stimulating. We were seated in a screened porch - which we had requested - and were pleasantly surprised at how the screens subdued the winds but allowed fresh air to circulate and offer a splendid view over the red rocks and mountains surrounding Sedona. A circular propane fireplace in the center of the porch sent heat our way as well as strategically placed gas ceiling heaters.... then there was the menu!! I chose smoked baked mussels in a tomato and chorizo sauce which was ecstasy followed by the Australian rack of lamb - three double chops exquisitely done rare inside and crisp on the outside. Margaret had pan seared halibut sautéed with roasted corn, black beans and quinoa! More propane heaters were rolled in to raise the climate to a toasty level and we enjoyed sparkling rose with our lamb! Totally a great dining experience in the heart of a glowing red rock valley and a perfect sunset - yes! you need to time that reservation just right!

Chapel of the Holy Cross

What a spot! Designed by Marguerite Brunswig Staude and featuring artwork by Sedona artists, this Roman Catholic chapel was completed in 1957. The views capture the magic of this place.

Harvest Moon camp fire

Dead Horse Ranch in Valley Verde is the first camp we have been in for three months solid that has allowed open fires. Since we left California on Independence Day we have been in high risk fire areas throughout OR, WA, BC, ALB, ID, MT and UT. So let's celebrate a full harvest moon and set fire to two bundles of juniper scented firewood and just to top it off light the charcoal grill to which I have added oak chunks to grill steaks over the embers. Nice night out in the Arizona high plateau desert!

Red rocks of Sedona

Our last two weeks have us camped at Dead Horse Ranch State Park 15 miles south of Sedona. Temperatures are 55-85. Just right! Our friends Bob and Lisa have given us great hikes and restaurants to try. We're working down the list! This is cathedral rock. We did the hiking part but stopped when it turned into rock scrambling! See all those people on the right?

Grand Canyon Rim Trail

Spot on 72 degree and breezy clear day to hike the south rim trail from the Great Abyss to the Bright Angel Trailhead... Took three hours with lots of stops for photos and taking in the views! Amazing how photos never ever do justice to the personal overwhelming sight of looking into that vast deep Grand Canyon. Even off season and mid week the south rim is a zoo! Swarms of German, Italian, Japanese and Chinese visitors and very few US! We enjoyed the north rim so much more last September with its compact and intimate setting, easy access and less crowds! Much of the rim trail between the Great Abyss and Powell Point is rough gravel and for long sections we were alone and with nature on the trail. As we got closer to the Canyon Village it got busier and noisier along the last mile. The trail overlook was interesting as you could see the Bright Angel trail that runs 5,000 ft from canyon rim down to Phantom Ranch on the Colorado River with the hikers depicted like ants moving up and down the trail!